Dry plate.

Often simply written as "W/NW" - your favorite photos. Explain them, or let your photos (film or digital) speak for themselves.
Brazile
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Re: Dry plate.

Post by Brazile »

alexvaras wrote:
Tue Aug 27, 2019 2:37 pm
I have downloaded an app which I can see the blue spectre (I think so) and I will do the photo with it and compare, maybe this way I can save some plates :)
Yes, that should help. You can also just get a blue gel filter and look through it. I think Osterman recommends sandwiching one between two pieces of glass and taping the edges so as to protect it, but this isn't necessary, just helpful.

Robert


alexvaras
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Re: Dry plate.

Post by alexvaras »

In the meantime of this conversation a friend found some chestnuts in branch and I tried to shoot it, very low light that morning, 15 seconds at f22.
Macro photography with Bergueil 10x15 and its double extension bellows with Heliar 18cm.

Image
Chestnuts in mortar.

She did a nice composition at school with them and that will be my next plate tomorrow.

Thank you for looking,
Alex.


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PFMcFarland
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Re: Dry plate.

Post by PFMcFarland »

Great tones!

PF


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GrahamS
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Re: Dry plate.

Post by GrahamS »

Looks alien.....


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Re: Dry plate.

Post by Eugen Mezei »

A green filter will make things only worse. Think about it, it darkens red (skin tone). In portrait photography green filter is recommended when taking photos of males and you want to add some masculinity. (So say all old photo books and they seem to be right.)


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Re: Dry plate.

Post by alexvaras »

Thank you, all, for your compliments and advices.


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melek
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Re: Dry plate.

Post by melek »

Eugen, would you recommend a red or orange filter to lighten the skin tones?

I've shot with filters but I've not used them for portrait work.


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Brazile
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Re: Dry plate.

Post by Brazile »

My opinion: I don't think a filter is going to help much with colorblind plates, if that's what these are. Yellow filters help a bit with orthochromatic plates. In general, filters start being useful for portraits only with panchromatic materials, I think.

Robert


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Re: Dry plate.

Post by alexvaras »

Meanwhile we wait Eugene's answer here it goes the last plate from this box.

Image
Chestnuts and Belorussian wheat in jar.

I'm very surprised by the cleanness of this plate comparing to others... I don't believe in miracles so it makes me ask you if fixer could affect the plate, I mean now I'm trying to reuse fix as local advice me.
FomaFix 5:1 in 2 litres, using 500ml each time and pouring it back to the 2 lines bottle again after use, about 20-30 rolls to fix as he said and now I wonder when the fixer was less stronger the plates had more artefacts or those stripes... Or is it really coincide?
Film rolls film sheets were fixed ok, no violet at all across the negatives...

Thank you for looking,
Alex


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Re: Dry plate.

Post by Julio1fer »

indeed it looks great, and those details are worth looking with a loupe.

Fixing would only affect your plate if not enough hypo concentration or time. In that case you should see "milky" areas. Best noticed in reflected light, sometimes.

Fixer is the cheapest fluid in B&W developing. You probably know this, but in any case you can make your own if you find a chemicals store. 1 liter of warm water, 250 g sodium hyposulphite crystals, about 20 g sodium sulfite. These are very common and safe-to-handle chemicals.

I have never bought commercial fixer in more than 50 years!


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