Super Wester Rehab Questions...

[scott]

Thanks, gents, has been very helpful.

Got home this afternoon and, after a failed attempt at changing the blower motor resistor in my F150 (grrrr Amazon) I decided to mess with the Wester. I tried moving the ring back and forth to see if the grease (not Superlube but similar, and very old but not separated, still seems to have good lubricity) would work into the helical enough to smooth things out. It would not. So, thinking I'd go from conservative to, um, not, I sprayed some P'Blaster into a little jar and, using a Q-tip, spread some across the threads of the inner helicoid. Made a huge difference. Spun the ring a bunch of times, and definitely much smoother, but still stiff enough that, if the ring is indeed a friction fit with the screws, it would still slip. So, I took some Goof-off (which is a blend of acetone, xylene, ethylbenzene, and methanol - nothing at all to be concerned about) and applied to the outer edge of the ring with a damp (not sopping) Q-tip. Instantly started spinning essentially freely. Little friction at all. It's not only very nice, but also very satisfying. I'm starting to remember why I used to do this all the time.

So, I'm letting the basement air out a bit (cough) and will apply some PTFE grease to the helical, and probably a little Rem oil diluted in some Ronsonol to the outer edge of the ring (I'm not removing it, and think some thinned oil will penetrate enough to keep it lubricated). Then reassemble and see if we're golden. In a perfect world, that will do the trick. Install the lens, adjust the rangefinder if needed, and load it up for some testing. We'll see how that pans out.

For now, my lungs hurt.

Stay tuned...

[scott]

Okay, here's how things are progressing (click for video - haven't cyphered out how to imbed video here yet):
Untitled by Scott, on Flickr

Diluted some Rem oil about 1:1 with Ronsonol, which is alleged to be residue free, and hung a drop off a large-ish slotted jeweler's screwdriver and just touched the tip to the exposed edge of the ring. Did this all 'round, rotated the ring a bunch of times, repeated. When it felt like it was dragging, would stop and apply at that point. Worked well. Letting it sit in a bit for the solvent to flash a little, then will repeat. At some point I need to get that tiny little screw threaded back into the ring - I'm kind of sweating that one. Hopefully moving toward goodness.

[titrisol]

Cool!
I saw the video and it looks much better
maybe (just maybe) that screw is a guide for replacing the shutter correctly in position?
The helicoid slots might do most of the job for that

[scott]

There ya go.

Working! by Scott, on Flickr
(video)

So, yes - the brass ring is fixed with a friction fit by the screws. Yes, the helical needed cleaning and lubrication, but - yes - it was the ring with the screws that actually needed to be cleaned and lubricated. That was what was binding and causing the focus ring to slip. Everything is cleaned and lubed now, moves very smoothly and easily. Have reinstalled the shutter, though will wait to put the lens cells back in until the morning - I want to make sure I don't have to do anything else to the shutter before I lock everything up. Give the lens cells a light celaning. Tomorrow, weather permitting, will adjust the rangefinder. And, with luck, test it out this weekend.

[P C Headland]

Looks like you've made some good progress!

[alexvaras]

Congrats!

Amaze me how that focus ring is set in place and how clean/lubed has to be the system to allow that tiny friction moves everything, good to know!

[scott]

Well, the camera went back together fine, everything working smoothly. Worked a ton of Bick 4 into the bellows, shined up the brightwork. Was running the shutter through its paces and the shutter started firing without being released. Hmm. Played with it some more and it was that the release wasn’t actually returning after being depressed. Hmm. Opened it up and looked at it, cleaned things, played around, and now it is hanging mid actuation, but will finish its cycle if I either help the release back to its start position, or, move the aperture. The only way this doesn’t is if the aperture is at its maximum opening.

Not sure what to make of that. Seems like something gummy somewhere, but not sure. A tomorrow problem though - Maddie and I are fixin to drive to CBP for the Phillies A’s game. In the rain. Thanks, Beryl.

[titrisol]

Did you lubricate the shutter blades?
a little moly powder goes a long way

[Brazile]

Really enjoying this saga, Scott, thanks for taking us along for the ride.

Robert

[PFMcFarland]

Well, the camera went back together fine, everything working smoothly. Worked a ton of Bick 4 into the bellows, shined up the brightwork. Was running the shutter through its paces and the shutter started firing without being released. Hmm. Played with it some more and it was that the release wasn’t actually returning after being depressed. Hmm. Opened it up and looked at it, cleaned things, played around, and now it is hanging mid actuation, but will finish its cycle if I either help the release back to its start position, or, move the aperture. The only way this doesn’t is if the aperture is at its maximum opening.

Not sure what to make of that. Seems like something gummy somewhere, but not sure. A tomorrow problem though - Maddie and I are fixin to drive to CBP for the Phillies A’s game. In the rain. Thanks, Beryl.

Two things I can think of. Another good soaking in the Ronsonol can't hurt. Run the shutter while it's still wet to really work the Ronsonol into every space. No need to lube anything as it's all designed to run dry (the lube will catch all the dust that migrates inside the mechanism through the actuating lever openings, gumming up the works). And check the tension on all the springs, as you may have accidentally reduced one or two of them while working on removing the levers and geartrains. Pay close attention to the lever that locks the shutter after charging. It's down around the B lever (at the 9 o'clock position).

PF