Hi all,
Officially I "work" for Ruslan (the man I talked about that has some many cameras), I repair/test cameras and lenses for him and I can keep whatever old "junk" I see and he agrees.
Now its time to put back to work this little camera, it has a 50mm Tessar and a shutter that doesn't work of so many dry grease inside.
Kolibri - front view.
Kolibri - Exposed roll found.
I plan to develop this exposed and expired film, I read in another forum one person who did the same brand with success using D-76 17min at 20C. Any other suggestion from you?
I would like to test it after the service with new film but Im afraid there is no 127mm film in Moscow...
Thank you for watching.
Alex
Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
You can cut 120 film and put it on the old spool. As for developing it you might do better with a one hour semi stand development in Rodinal 1-100 at 20C for an hour. Start it out at 20-21 C and don't worry about the change over an hour. Agitate for the first minute then sit it down Give it about 5 inversions at 50 minutes and then at one hour dump it stop fix awash as normal. You may want to not use an acidic stop bath bath but just a few changes of water with agitation . The old film may not like the sudden stop and get pin holes so that is why I advise water not acid.
If we all saw the world the same no one would need a camera.
Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
Thank you for the tip Larry, I will wait until I get rodinal.
About the film, how to cut along in the dark the 120mm film?
About the film, how to cut along in the dark the 120mm film?
Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
You will need a film slitter. I got an adjustable one on ebay that will slit from 70mm to 8 mm. Look for Film Slitter.
If we all saw the world the same no one would need a camera.
Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
That is a nice classic, hope you can restore it to function.
Gene M of http://www.westfordcomp.com/ was my reference for old film. I have not seen him around for some time. He used HC-110 at a relatively high concentration (the highest recommended for similar film, and therefore shortest time), and lower temperatures than usual, for instance 18 C. I believe this was chosen in order to minimize eventual damage to old gelatine in the film, although less fog was also claimed.
My few experiences with old film were with Beutler and D-76 stock at standard times, on Isopan and FP4 that were 20 to 35 years old at the time of developing. I got good enough results. Strong film curling may be a problem, so be prepared for a fight to get it into the reel. If you use plastic reels, it may help to have available a card of thin plastic, same width as the film, to use at the point of insertion in the reel. You insert the old film lead together with the card into the reel, and move the lead and card inwards until the card gets past the insertion point and comes free, then remove the card and go on as normal.
For testing, best is to slit 120 film, but you could get by with 35mm film. Save the paper roll, and roll it back in the original direction. In the dark, tape a same length (it is about 50-60 cm) of 35mm film to the paper, starting in the same position of the 127 film. 127 film is 46 mm width, so you will have half a centimeter on either side, film edge to paper edge. You get interesting frames, with the images all over the film holes and edge markings; the film will not cover the entire 127 frame, but the difference will be only about 2 mm on either side. Good enough for a test.
This technique is also described in this lomography link.
Waiting for your results!
Gene M of http://www.westfordcomp.com/ was my reference for old film. I have not seen him around for some time. He used HC-110 at a relatively high concentration (the highest recommended for similar film, and therefore shortest time), and lower temperatures than usual, for instance 18 C. I believe this was chosen in order to minimize eventual damage to old gelatine in the film, although less fog was also claimed.
My few experiences with old film were with Beutler and D-76 stock at standard times, on Isopan and FP4 that were 20 to 35 years old at the time of developing. I got good enough results. Strong film curling may be a problem, so be prepared for a fight to get it into the reel. If you use plastic reels, it may help to have available a card of thin plastic, same width as the film, to use at the point of insertion in the reel. You insert the old film lead together with the card into the reel, and move the lead and card inwards until the card gets past the insertion point and comes free, then remove the card and go on as normal.
For testing, best is to slit 120 film, but you could get by with 35mm film. Save the paper roll, and roll it back in the original direction. In the dark, tape a same length (it is about 50-60 cm) of 35mm film to the paper, starting in the same position of the 127 film. 127 film is 46 mm width, so you will have half a centimeter on either side, film edge to paper edge. You get interesting frames, with the images all over the film holes and edge markings; the film will not cover the entire 127 frame, but the difference will be only about 2 mm on either side. Good enough for a test.
This technique is also described in this lomography link.
Waiting for your results!
Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
I hope Gene is doing OK. I have not seen him in ages on any of the forums. That said. If you look around the internet there are plans that if you are handy with tools to make a slitter. I think you can do it by seeing your work.
If we all saw the world the same no one would need a camera.
- PFMcFarland
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Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
You might want to try this outfit http://filmforclassics.com/products/ They sell through other dealers, and have a list of who they supply. Freestyle also has a 100 ISO Chrome E6, and 400 ISO Pan. Shipping to Moscow could get expensive though, so look for that splitter.
PF
PF
Waiting for the light
Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
Bad news about the film, dark dark dark even the transparent parts are dark grey. Even parts where emulsion felt. I followed Larry's instructions with not stop just wash and then fix. Days later I will try to scan and see what was there.
Julio, yes curly film as Maradona's hair it was difficult but I handled it finally.
I kept the paper back and tomorrow I will try to get a cigar cutter ror making the 127 film.
As well tomorrow I will finish the service of the Kolibri.
Not very happy but I guess the camera was not stored properly.
Julio, yes curly film as Maradona's hair it was difficult but I handled it finally.
I kept the paper back and tomorrow I will try to get a cigar cutter ror making the 127 film.
As well tomorrow I will finish the service of the Kolibri.
Not very happy but I guess the camera was not stored properly.
Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
Film is like fruit.
If we all saw the world the same no one would need a camera.
Re: Zeiss Ikon Kolibri.
That grey means lots of fog, probably very old film indeed. Loss of emulsion also suggests old age.
IIRC "Isopan" film with no added letters is quite old, maybe even pre-WW2. There were modern variants but always named "Isopan something".
IIRC "Isopan" film with no added letters is quite old, maybe even pre-WW2. There were modern variants but always named "Isopan something".
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