Did it work?scott wrote: ↑Wed Apr 07, 2021 11:59 amInteresting, and i'm reading this about 20 minutes late. Bought some of the B'laster penetrant and the cells are soaking now. A little worried that the lens coatings will be fried by this stuff, but in for a penny...
I'll pull them out Saturday and see if they move. Stay tuned...
Oops...
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It's been three days. Meant to pull it today and see, but too many irons in the fire. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to try and separate the cells.
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Nope. Didn’t budge. Going to submerge it in Goof Off and order some band wrenches next. Super annoying.
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Yes, it is super annoying
one of Isolette front elements I had was extremely tough, I submerged it in IPA fora few days, applying acetone in the affected area, treid goof off, tried band wrenches (let me know if you find small ones), 3D printed my own wrenches, tried heating in cycles, etc and nothing worked
My guess is that PB Balster worked as final solution
PS. I learned the 2nd element comes form thebottom
Also let me know if you want a couple of the 3D printed wrenches
one of Isolette front elements I had was extremely tough, I submerged it in IPA fora few days, applying acetone in the affected area, treid goof off, tried band wrenches (let me know if you find small ones), 3D printed my own wrenches, tried heating in cycles, etc and nothing worked
My guess is that PB Balster worked as final solution
PS. I learned the 2nd element comes form thebottom
Also let me know if you want a couple of the 3D printed wrenches
Re: Oops...
I generally have no issues after heating. I'm not expecting the solvent to do much on it's own. Going to take force. With that in mind, yeah - I'd appreciate a pair of your wrenches. I'll send you a PM. Thanks!titrisol wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:10 amYes, it is super annoying
one of Isolette front elements I had was extremely tough, I submerged it in IPA fora few days, applying acetone in the affected area, treid goof off, tried band wrenches (let me know if you find small ones), 3D printed my own wrenches, tried heating in cycles, etc and nothing worked
My guess is that PB Balster worked as final solution
PS. I learned the 2nd element comes form thebottom
Also let me know if you want a couple of the 3D printed wrenches
Re: Oops...
Question for the Compur/Prontor experts.
I just got delivery of a photo transitor from Filmomat and been "mapping" the shutters of my cameras for accuracy
In most cameras that I think are good between 1 and 8 and 60-250 I see +/- 1/3 stop which doesn't bother me
HOWEVER either 15 or 30 is out of whack by 2/3 or 1 stop
What makes this speed different from the others?
Is the change from high to low speed escapement?
Or is it the "notch" on the speed dial?
EG
Voigtlander Vitessa (Compur)
1 1/0.9
2 1/1.7
4 1/3.8
8 1/8.1
15 1/24.5
30 1/32
60 1/58
125 1/124
250 1/251
Voigtlander Vito B (Prontor)
1 1/1
2 1/1.9
4 1/3.9
8 1/8.6
15 1/13.3
30 1/44.3
60 1/54
125 1/125.6
250 1/232
I just got delivery of a photo transitor from Filmomat and been "mapping" the shutters of my cameras for accuracy
In most cameras that I think are good between 1 and 8 and 60-250 I see +/- 1/3 stop which doesn't bother me
HOWEVER either 15 or 30 is out of whack by 2/3 or 1 stop
What makes this speed different from the others?
Is the change from high to low speed escapement?
Or is it the "notch" on the speed dial?
EG
Voigtlander Vitessa (Compur)
1 1/0.9
2 1/1.7
4 1/3.8
8 1/8.1
15 1/24.5
30 1/32
60 1/58
125 1/124
250 1/251
Voigtlander Vito B (Prontor)
1 1/1
2 1/1.9
4 1/3.9
8 1/8.6
15 1/13.3
30 1/44.3
60 1/54
125 1/125.6
250 1/232
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I can't talk much about Prontor but the Compur I have done the 30 was ok after the service, strange that if 60-125 are okish this 30 is much slower.
Is this happening in more than one shutter of yours?
I see you added more info meanwhile I was writing this...
Seeing the high speeds ok I wouldn't bother much with these ones.
Yes, notch controls how much the pin of the slow geat mechanism travels so the resistance to the main spring for closing the shutter.
Is this happening in more than one shutter of yours?
I see you added more info meanwhile I was writing this...
Seeing the high speeds ok I wouldn't bother much with these ones.
Yes, notch controls how much the pin of the slow geat mechanism travels so the resistance to the main spring for closing the shutter.
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So the 3D printed wrenches just arrived. The stuck cells have been soaking in Goof-Off for a week. The wrenches fit perfectly, and with quite a bit of effort, the cells came apart! Woot! Can start moving forward with this project again. Thanks Pablo!
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Absolutely, let me know the diameter of the elements (xternal) that the wrenches need to grasp.
That way I can personalize them for you
I sent Scott a few since I didn't know what size element he had but the Ikoflex might be a bight larger than AGFAs As a side note, I have a Fujica ST701 that works fine but I had never been able to make the lightmeter work due to the battery issues (Wein cells are too expensive)
Since the corona pandemonium gave me lots of time; I 3dprinted an adapter to match the size of EX400 batteries (Hg) using hearing aid batteries (312); basically a simple ring to use the smaller batteries, and the lightmeter worked perfectly for the 1st time in more than 15yrs!
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