B&W Reversal
Re: B&W Reversal
Very nice indeed!
GrahamS
Age brings wisdom....or age shows up alone. You never know.
Age brings wisdom....or age shows up alone. You never know.
Re: B&W Reversal
Getting closer!
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Re: B&W Reversal
I did another short test the other day with some Fomapan 100, using PC-TEA as the developer. I used a stronger dilution of 1+30 than the usual 1+50 or 1+100, and developed for 12 minutes at 25 celsius. Apart from an intermittent light leak from the Ricoh 500G (dodgy light seals that I need to re-do), the results look pretty good. I'll use this as the base for a proper test next time, probably with some proper sized film
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Re: B&W Reversal
This is very interesting, I have some film that is good for reversal (EFKE100) but have always shied of it.
I shot a couple of SCALA rolls way back and sent them out
I've seen some documents/tutorials.instructions but for my understanding please clarify
As per Julio's notes
1st developer you over develop?
Bleach to completion
Hypo?
Re-expose
Re-develop to completion? or by inspection
Fix?
Wash
same as the AGFA papers made in Uruguay, they were beautiful.
I shot a couple of SCALA rolls way back and sent them out
I've seen some documents/tutorials.instructions but for my understanding please clarify
As per Julio's notes
1st developer you over develop?
Bleach to completion
Hypo?
Re-expose
Re-develop to completion? or by inspection
Fix?
Wash
PS. How I miss APX100, it was my bread-n-butter film for yearsJulio1fer wrote: ↑Tue Nov 22, 2022 7:56 pmPC, FWIW these are my old notes on the process. The basis was the Ilford document, where the formulae are given, although I modified them a bit.
My notes make references to an apparently defunct site, Times and Dilutions, by Don Qualls (ImageMaker).
same as the AGFA papers made in Uruguay, they were beautiful.
Re: B&W Reversal
Agfa Brovira indeed! And APX 100 is sorely missed.PS. How I miss APX100, it was my bread-n-butter film for years
same as the AGFA papers made in Uruguay, they were beautiful.
Yes, you should overdevelop in first stage.
2nd developer, I did by inspection. I did fix after 2nd developer.
The diluted hypo after bleaching was needed to get reproducible results, in my experience with different films.
Very important: use film with a clear base.
My favorite film after a few experiments was Pan F+.
Re: B&W Reversal
I bought a stereo glass-plate camera and finally got the glass plates on order
I'll try this procedure with those as it seems logical
Meanwhile a coouple of tests are in order
Thanks
I'll try this procedure with those as it seems logical
Meanwhile a coouple of tests are in order
Thanks
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Re: B&W Reversal
I'd watch the Youtube video I linked in the original post, but here's what I've done so far:
Generic B+W Reversal
Step 1
1st Developer: needs to be a “dense negative”, denser is better. All films should be the same time (like colour neg). Might need to experiment a bit here.
Step 2
Bleach: 250ml Hydrogen Peroxide 3% + 15ml White Vinegar (should be run warm / hot, but take care not to “shock” the film with a big temperature change. Run for at least 6 minutes. Longer doesn’t hurt. Solution can be re-used, but leave space in container as it can expand.
Step 3
Re-expose film to light.
Step 4
Re-develop, can use developer from step 1. Develop for normal time, though you can’t really over-develop at this stage.
Step 5
Fix as usual (not 100% necessary)
Step 6
Rinse as usual
My Tests
Rollei Retro 400s at 200
1. Develop in Rodinal 1+25 @23c for 15 minutes
2. Rinse / soak 10 minutes at 25c
3. Bleach @30c for 15 minutes
4. Re-expose 2-3 minutes
5. Re-develop in Rodinal 1+25 15 minutes
6. Rinse
These look a little underexposed, so might need to either develop a little longer / hotter, or shoot at EI100.
(Normal development time for Rollei Retro 400s is 10 minutes for Rodinal 1+25)
Fomapan 100 at 100
1. Develop in PC-TEA 1+30 @25c for 12 minutes
2. Bleach for 20 minutes @30c
3. Re-expose to light (bright bulb) 2-3 minutes
4. Re-develop PC-TEA 1+30 @25c for 12 minutes
5. Rinse
The exposure on these looks to be pretty good.
I have seen some people recommend using a paper developer, but since I don't do darkroom printing, I don't have anything to try with.
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