Camera Talk

Very nice indeed!

Getting closer!

I did another short test the other day with some Fomapan 100, using PC-TEA as the developer. I used a stronger dilution of 1+30 than the usual 1+50 or 1+100, and developed for 12 minutes at 25 celsius. Apart from an intermittent light leak from the Ricoh 500G (dodgy light seals that I need to re-do), the results look pretty good. I'll use this as the base for a proper test next time, probably with some proper sized film

This is very interesting, I have some film that is good for reversal (EFKE100) but have always shied of it.
I shot a couple of SCALA rolls way back and sent them out

I've seen some documents/tutorials.instructions but for my understanding please clarify
As per Julio's notes
1st developer you over develop?
Bleach to completion
Hypo?
Re-expose
Re-develop to completion? or by inspection
Fix?
Wash

Julio1fer wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 22, 2022 7:56 pm

PC, FWIW these are my old notes on the process. The basis was the Ilford document, where the formulae are given, although I modified them a bit.

My notes make references to an apparently defunct site, Times and Dilutions, by Don Qualls (ImageMaker).

PS. How I miss APX100, it was my bread-n-butter film for years
same as the AGFA papers made in Uruguay, they were beautiful.

PS. How I miss APX100, it was my bread-n-butter film for years
same as the AGFA papers made in Uruguay, they were beautiful.

Agfa Brovira indeed! And APX 100 is sorely missed.

Yes, you should overdevelop in first stage.

2nd developer, I did by inspection. I did fix after 2nd developer.

The diluted hypo after bleaching was needed to get reproducible results, in my experience with different films.

Very important: use film with a clear base.

My favorite film after a few experiments was Pan F+.

I bought a stereo glass-plate camera and finally got the glass plates on order
I'll try this procedure with those as it seems logical
Meanwhile a coouple of tests are in order
Thanks

titrisol wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 27, 2023 8:19 am

...
I've seen some documents/tutorials.instructions but for my understanding please clarify
As per Julio's notes
1st developer you over develop?
Bleach to completion
Hypo?
Re-expose
Re-develop to completion? or by inspection
Fix?
Wash

...

I'd watch the Youtube video I linked in the original post, but here's what I've done so far:

Generic B+W Reversal

Step 1
1st Developer: needs to be a “dense negative”, denser is better. All films should be the same time (like colour neg). Might need to experiment a bit here.

Step 2
Bleach: 250ml Hydrogen Peroxide 3% + 15ml White Vinegar (should be run warm / hot, but take care not to “shock” the film with a big temperature change. Run for at least 6 minutes. Longer doesn’t hurt. Solution can be re-used, but leave space in container as it can expand.

Step 3
Re-expose film to light.

Step 4
Re-develop, can use developer from step 1. Develop for normal time, though you can’t really over-develop at this stage.

Step 5
Fix as usual (not 100% necessary)

Step 6
Rinse as usual

My Tests

Rollei Retro 400s at 200
1. Develop in Rodinal 1+25 @23c for 15 minutes
2. Rinse / soak 10 minutes at 25c
3. Bleach @30c for 15 minutes
4. Re-expose 2-3 minutes
5. Re-develop in Rodinal 1+25 15 minutes
6. Rinse

These look a little underexposed, so might need to either develop a little longer / hotter, or shoot at EI100.
(Normal development time for Rollei Retro 400s is 10 minutes for Rodinal 1+25)


Fomapan 100 at 100
1. Develop in PC-TEA 1+30 @25c for 12 minutes
2. Bleach for 20 minutes @30c
3. Re-expose to light (bright bulb) 2-3 minutes
4. Re-develop PC-TEA 1+30 @25c for 12 minutes
5. Rinse

The exposure on these looks to be pretty good.

I have seen some people recommend using a paper developer, but since I don't do darkroom printing, I don't have anything to try with.

Mixed results on some trials this weekend,
Lucky 100 SHD
1. Temperature 30C/85F
2. Develop F76+ 1+4 (paper strength) 5 minutes
3. Rinse
4. Bleach 3% peroxide + Vinegar 30 minutes
5. Rinse
At this point I noticed that bleach had not done much, I could see negatives
4B. Bleach 3% peroxide + Vinegar 30 minutes
Slow bleach,
6. Reexposure
7. F76 1+9 5 minutes
8. Fix

Bleach step didn't do much, it all turned black

Double X
1. Temperature 30C/85F
2. Develop F76+ 1+4 (paper strength) 5 minutes
3. Rinse
4. Bleach 3% peroxide + Vinegar 30 minutes
At this point I began bleaching with top open and inspect
Kept bleaching for almost 90 minutes, until it was there
Placed the tank in hot water to keep temp up
5. Rinse
6. Re-exposure
7. F76 1+9 5 minutes
8. Fix
Base stained to a gold/brown color and images are there but hard to see.

ISTR the gold/brown staining is down to the bleach (there was a thread on APUG).

How long between the two attempts, or did you mix fresh bleach each time? What temperature was the bleach? Do you have any Rodinal or PC-TEA?

You've now made me think I need to try this again, perhaps with 120.

P C Headland wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 25, 2026 3:37 am

ISTR the gold/brown staining is down to the bleach (there was a thread on APUG).

How long between the two attempts, or did you mix fresh bleach each time? What temperature was the bleach? Do you have any Rodinal or PC-TEA?

You've now made me think I need to try this again, perhaps with 120.

Bleach was fresh each time, a few days passed between one another.
I began bleaching at 35C and in the 2nd attempt kept in in hot water so temperature was betwen 30 and 35
What was interesting is that there are portions that are not bleached, despite the agitation. It is as if the bleaching began in a "front" and kept moving until the are was bleached.
I do have Rodinal and F76+ is like D76 which should work as well.

I found that home depot has 12% peroxide in the cleaning section, will try that next