Camera Talk

About 6 months ago I saw in one local auction site this camera, well preserved and with a Tessar, about $50 sold AS-IS, the seller said he could it fire twice and no more. So I started to read about this model and I realised that probably the seller didn't know how to use it (RTFM!) and I though why not (it was risky, another city and I couldn't check it myself but the seller has good reviews) and one week later came, I followed the manual and "clicked".

It took me so long to test it because after doing the complete service, buying a new mirror (Martin Seelig services are recommended, custom made) I decided to clean the 2 front lenses separately, I began to unscrew the holding front ring and I got it stuck, no way to go back and/or forward and I put the camera on 'stand-by' until I get a solution. The tip was made from a repairman here in Moscow, where I go sometimes, he firstly was able to take the front ring back (better and stronger spanner than mine) and explained how to do it at home. It seems someone painted black the inner thread so I had no chance to take it out before cleaning it. This was my second camera for servicing after trying the Pearl III so I was quite unhappy with my skill/luck.

Now the pictures, some days later the Fix-it guide, so far a light leak in some frames, I guess its not a big one and only if the camera is at certain position regarding the sun, I will look for it. The film was expired 1999 Tri-X 400, shot as 100, developed as 400.
The roll was shot in two days during my bike morning ridings, I used a lens hood (32mm push-in standard for many cameras of that time)

Near my home there is an old hospital and inside has a forest to walk in, some constructions are not reformed. The photo should be one stop darker as far I remember.


Light, shadow and infinite test.


I was going to shoot Bolshoy Teatr but a football fan from Egypt started to ask me about the camera




I tried this photo already with the Superb but it went not so good as this one.


This is the first time the light leak appears. Close focus, I can't avoid taking a couple of shots overtime I see it




Roma charging battery He agreed when I asked him for this photo.


Second time for the light leak, last one has not.




Last two shots were for an street band.




About the camera, very hard to focus, image is clear and bright, but the focusing knob should be wider/bigger to focus more accurately, I had to use an external rangefinder to be sure everything was on place. Shutter is erratic, I could measure only one constant speed, others were crazy, I need to service it again. Shutter release is on the right top, so you need to use the left thumb, first click is the double exposure mechanism and you need to continue going down until the second click for the shutter, I do the first click and the hold the thumb until I have the final composition.
I think the hood was crucial for having such good results in terms of tone range (mostly all the histogram covered), please let me know if Im wrong.
Mike, finally I found a Tessar which please me

Thank you for reading and watching.

This is a good story of your work with the Ikoflex and the photos show your success. I especially like the first photo--difficult lighting but fine atmosphere.
Bill Delehanty

That Tessar is a pretty serious lens, and as you have probably verified, the TLR is a great conversation starter in the street and tourist areas.

Splendid test photos, Alex. I was thinking you could have an internal reflection seeing as that light is coming from opposite directions in the two instances, something like some paint has come off of the side of a lens element towards the rear, letting light bounce around inside the film chamber. My Jupiter-12 was doing the same thing until I covered up a little area that had been worn on the side of the rear element. Next time out, no flares!

You'd have to pull out all the elements to see if there is any paint missing from the edges of the elements. It's there to keep the light away from the interior of the lens barrel which can be highly reflective in some instances.

The Ikoflex is a good camera, and you can get close-up lens sets that are like putting a lens cap on the camera, instead of the lens and prism arrangement used on the Rollei's.

PF

Bravo, Alex! Those are superb photos. I think that the exposure is pretty close to perfect. You have made that old Ikoflex perform really well. That Tessar will not be coated, so the lens hood was a good idea. The light leak could be from poor light seals on the camera back - just a thought.

Thank you all, I appreciate it.

minoly wrote:This is a good story of your work with the Ikoflex and the photos show your success. I especially like the first photo--difficult lighting but fine atmosphere.
Bill Delehanty

Thank you Bill, in fact tomorrow morning I will come back to that place at the same time 8-9am with a velvia 50 expired, my first color shooting since I was 13 years old (I know for sure because I that age to did Italy in colour film, next one Paris was already BW)
Im going to try both velvia film and the tripod, Medalist II with a Rada back, unit extensions, portra and telek lenses, the Rada will have the 4,5x6 mask so lets experiment a bit.
Probably I will shoot a normal BW film as well in my usual walkabout.

GrahamS wrote:Bravo, Alex! Those are superb photos. I think that the exposure is pretty close to perfect. You have made that old Ikoflex perform really well. That Tessar will not be coated, so the lens hood was a good idea. The light leak could be from poor light seals on the camera back - just a thought.

Thank you about the exposure comment, I really try hard to do it fine, the process can take me 2/3 of the time of shooting, I use two apps on the phone plus the Gossen Digisix and then I take a decision of which one I think its correct.
Yes to the hood, I'm already buying one to cover the Inos II and Superb, same lens
I just checked the seals, they seem fine, one test could be shot a roll with the camera "taped" around, but its not an effective way to find the light leak.

PFMcFarland wrote:Splendid test photos, Alex. I was thinking you could have an internal reflection seeing as that light is coming from opposite directions in the two instances, something like some paint has come off of the side of a lens element towards the rear, letting light bounce around inside the film chamber. My Jupiter-12 was doing the same thing until I covered up a little area that had been worn on the side of the rear element. Next time out, no flares!

You'd have to pull out all the elements to see if there is any paint missing from the edges of the elements. It's there to keep the light away from the interior of the lens barrel which can be highly reflective in some instances.
PF

As you say in the first part it might me true because the lens it has some black painting off, but its not in all the pictures, only in the 3 closer focus, which leads me to the inside chamber of the camera, on the left part there is a brass screw head that holds the external focus wheel, that screw has in fact some back paint off and the screw turns as I focus the camera, so if any of this brass part reflects any light should be on the right side of the film, where is the place I found the light leak.
As I have to service the shutter again, I will paint black (matte) the pealed off metal parts of the lenses and the screw head and then do a normal shooting in day light (sunny is a must) with some close ups and usual stuff.
If still happens then probably are the back seals.

Thank you all for the tips, I really appreciate your feedback, makes me think and learn

alexvaras wrote: Thank you Bill, in fact tomorrow morning I will come back to that place at the same time 8-9am with a velvia 50 expired, my first color shooting since I was 13 years old (I know for sure because I that age to did Italy in colour film, next one Paris was already BW)
Im going to try both velvia film and the tripod, Medalist II with a Rada back, unit extensions, portra and telek lenses, the Rada will have the 4,5x6 mask so lets experiment a bit.
the phone plus the Gossen Digisix and then I take a decision of which one I think its correct.
Yes to the hood, I'm already buying one to cover the Inos II and Superb, same lens
I just checked the seals, they seem fine, one test could be shot a roll with the camera "taped" around, but its not an effective way to find the light leak.

Alex, beware Velvia has very little exposure latitude and does not like contrasty lighting. Expose for the highlights or use an incident light reading. If the film is date expired I suggest that you use a roll (if you have more than one) to do an exposure test by shooting the same subject at various exposures. This will enable you to determine the ASA (iso) number to use.

Some photos after painting black the focus screw inside the film chamber that might caused the flare, also I opened the elements and I marked black as well some silver chips.
So far no flare and the camera was exposed to a very bright sun so the closing seals should be ok.


My morning gear


Maya Plisetskaya


Zombi attack


The best of the sun, the shade.


Alexander II


Steps

Thank you for watching.

Well it's working fine! I like your cityscape shots, but those steps are a very interesting subject. Typical maybe of what comes up when you use a TLR.

I think you may have fixed it, Alex, and the photos are great. I like your bike, have been considering one for myself since this place is so small.

PF