Putting all the repair/rehab stuff here.
So, shutter cleaned up nicely. Is a Prontor clone.
NKK shutter by Scott, on Flickr
Didn't need too much. Speeds sound pretty close, close enough for print film. I didn't mess with adjusting them (click for video).
Nishida shutter by Scott, on Flickr
So, was thinking I was ready to throw some film in and try it out. Decided I'd clean and lube the struts on the door, as it wouldn't self-open on release, had to kind of pull it free. Cleaning it with xylene, and a little Rem Oil, and it pops out nicely. Also decided I'd put a little lube on the threads for the helical. Mixed a little Rem Oil in some PTFE lube and just dabbed a little in the exposed threads. As I started moving the lens in and out, I noticed the ring on the helical wasn't actually traveling fully - hits a certain point, then slides the rest of the way (video):
Untitled by Scott, on Flickr
Checked the connection between the rangefinder and the helical, and the infinity isn't set correctly (video):
Untitled by Scott, on Flickr
So, I guess I'm not done. I'm -guessing- I need to pull the shutter to expose the helical and adjustment ring, then adjust something the the standard travels full stroke. Then, adjust the rangefinder and collimate? Been a while.
Does that sound right?
Scott
Super Wester Rehab Questions...
Re: Super Wester Rehab Questions...
The infinity adjustment looks like to Solinettes, ad the ring for focusing looks like the Karats.
PMF has a lot of good pictures on the disassembly of the focusing ring.
PMF has a lot of good pictures on the disassembly of the focusing ring.
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Re: Super Wester Rehab Questions...
Looks vaguely similar to the setup on the Iskra & Super Fujica-6 (both unit focusing RFs). I seem to recall coming across the process for adjusting the RF on the Iskra (or equivalent Agfa) - maybe that would be a good starting point?
At risk of asking my grandmother to suck eggs (or me not understanding), do you know if it is it the lens that is causing the stickiness or the RF mechanism?
At risk of asking my grandmother to suck eggs (or me not understanding), do you know if it is it the lens that is causing the stickiness or the RF mechanism?
Re: Super Wester Rehab Questions...
What seems to be happening is the infinity hits the limit too early, then the ring just kind of slides the rest of its travel. Then slides back until that point and then the standard starts traveling again. No evidence of anyone having been in it before. I’m hoping it’s just a matter of realigning something. I’m really not looking forward to pulling the top off it though, but the rangefinder will definitely need to be adjusted after this.P C Headland wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 5:59 pmLooks vaguely similar to the setup on the Iskra & Super Fujica-6 (both unit focusing RFs). I seem to recall coming across the process for adjusting the RF on the Iskra (or equivalent Agfa) - maybe that would be a good starting point?
At risk of asking my grandmother to suck eggs (or me not understanding), do you know if it is it the lens that is causing the stickiness or the RF mechanism?
Re: Super Wester Rehab Questions...
You know, it's almost like it's sliding off of the helical, but it isn't because it re-engages. If it was off the helical, you wouldn't think that it would re-engage each time. I'm eager to see what you learn.
-Mike Elek
Re: Super Wester Rehab Questions...
Adjusting the RF is done with that little screw under the shutter (5 oclock positon) no need to remove the top unless it is really out of whack. Solinettes are like thatscott wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 6:35 pmWhat seems to be happening is the infinity hits the limit too early, then the ring just kind of slides the rest of its travel. Then slides back until that point and then the standard starts traveling again. No evidence of anyone having been in it before. I’m hoping it’s just a matter of realigning something. I’m really not looking forward to pulling the top off it though, but the rangefinder will definitely need to be adjusted after this.P C Headland wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 5:59 pmLooks vaguely similar to the setup on the Iskra & Super Fujica-6 (both unit focusing RFs). I seem to recall coming across the process for adjusting the RF on the Iskra (or equivalent Agfa) - maybe that would be a good starting point?
At risk of asking my grandmother to suck eggs (or me not understanding), do you know if it is it the lens that is causing the stickiness or the RF mechanism?
After collimating, adjust the RF to infinity or a fixed distance (2m) using that screw and done
Re: Super Wester Rehab Questions...
Good to know! I’m guessing I still need to pull the shutter and fix the focus ring not traveling the full stroke first. Will be working on this for the next couple days after work.titrisol wrote: ↑Sun Jul 07, 2024 7:55 pmAdjusting the RF is done with that little screw under the shutter (5 oclock positon) no need to remove the top unless it is really out of whack. Solinettes are like thatscott wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 6:35 pmWhat seems to be happening is the infinity hits the limit too early, then the ring just kind of slides the rest of its travel. Then slides back until that point and then the standard starts traveling again. No evidence of anyone having been in it before. I’m hoping it’s just a matter of realigning something. I’m really not looking forward to pulling the top off it though, but the rangefinder will definitely need to be adjusted after this.P C Headland wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 5:59 pmLooks vaguely similar to the setup on the Iskra & Super Fujica-6 (both unit focusing RFs). I seem to recall coming across the process for adjusting the RF on the Iskra (or equivalent Agfa) - maybe that would be a good starting point?
At risk of asking my grandmother to suck eggs (or me not understanding), do you know if it is it the lens that is causing the stickiness or the RF mechanism?
After collimating, adjust the RF to infinity or a fixed distance (2m) using that screw and done
Re: Super Wester Rehab Questions...
Okay, I’m rereading this (gave up caffeine months ago, may need to go back). I’m thinking/hoping now I can rotate the focus ring to its current max, loosen that screw, move the ring to the limit of its travel, then collimate? Could it be that easy?titrisol wrote: ↑Sun Jul 07, 2024 7:55 pmAdjusting the RF is done with that little screw under the shutter (5 oclock positon) no need to remove the top unless it is really out of whack. Solinettes are like thatscott wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 6:35 pmWhat seems to be happening is the infinity hits the limit too early, then the ring just kind of slides the rest of its travel. Then slides back until that point and then the standard starts traveling again. No evidence of anyone having been in it before. I’m hoping it’s just a matter of realigning something. I’m really not looking forward to pulling the top off it though, but the rangefinder will definitely need to be adjusted after this.P C Headland wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 5:59 pmLooks vaguely similar to the setup on the Iskra & Super Fujica-6 (both unit focusing RFs). I seem to recall coming across the process for adjusting the RF on the Iskra (or equivalent Agfa) - maybe that would be a good starting point?
At risk of asking my grandmother to suck eggs (or me not understanding), do you know if it is it the lens that is causing the stickiness or the RF mechanism?
After collimating, adjust the RF to infinity or a fixed distance (2m) using that screw and done
Re: Super Wester Rehab Questions...
I think so.
* The hard part is to fix the focus ring and collimate
* Once you have done that you need to set the RF to infinity
If my hunch is correct (you can test with your finger) the RF moves with the sliding lever that is attached to that screw. Thus if you have your lens collimated all you need to adjust is how far that slider moves to match the lens (with the screw only)
I see it in my head but I'm not sure the write up makes sense
* The hard part is to fix the focus ring and collimate
* Once you have done that you need to set the RF to infinity
If my hunch is correct (you can test with your finger) the RF moves with the sliding lever that is attached to that screw. Thus if you have your lens collimated all you need to adjust is how far that slider moves to match the lens (with the screw only)
I see it in my head but I'm not sure the write up makes sense
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